Spadina Security Inc.


Q & A

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Ask us anything about locks and security            

Q:  How do I pick an alarm code?

 

A:  You need an easy to remember four digit code that is difficult to guess.  Never start with “19” or “20” as these are too often used.

 

Pick two easy to remember four digit codes.  Use the last two digits of each for your alarm code.

 

Q:  How do I tell if my lock works?

 

A:  A deadbolt lock works to keep intruders out of your home and business.  To ensure that your deadbolts are in good working order examine them for these faults:

 

1.  Check with a ruler that the bolt comes out of the door one inch (1”).  If it only protrudes ½” then it was installed wrong or is out of date.

 

2.  Ensure that the collar on the outside of the door rotates.  Use your hand to spin the collar.  If it does not spin the lock may have been installed too tightly.

 

3.   Make sure that your bolt deadlocks.  This means that when the bolt is extended you cannot push it back into the door with your finger.

 

4.   Make sure the hole in the frame (the strike) is deep enough for the bolt to fully extend.

 

5.   Check normal operation.  If something feels like it is about to break it will.  Call a locksmith to repair or replace the lock right away.  Waiting until it does break will only cost you more.

 

Q:  Why do you recommend Mul-T-Lock products?

 

A:  When I became a locksmith I researched and compared the popular High Security lines available.  Mul-T-Lock is the only product line that I found to be superior.  To be specific, I found Mul-T-Lock to be in significantly better than similar products in these ways:

     1.  Pick Resistance – 10 pins

     2.  Drill Resistance – Steel inserts and stainless steel pins

     3.  Key Control – cannot be copied on a standard machine

     4.  Simple – No special training needed.  Uses standard

                        pinning principles all locksmiths use

     5.  Cylinder Line – Huge selection of retrofit products

     6.  Unique Features:

             a)  Interlocking Bolt

             b)  3-in-1 feature – users can rekey their own lock

 

Q:  Why should I upgrade my locks?

 

A:  Most locks in use today can be opened with hand tools or more disturbing your key can be copied for $2.

 

Crime is high in Toronto.  Burglars look for easy access to steal your valuables.  Even when we catch these people and they admit their guilt they only spend a few months in jail.  When they get out they break into our homes and businesses again. 

 

 

__________________

 

Sample questions from Alt.Locksmithing

 

Q.  How can I get keys stamped "DO NOT DUPLICATE" duplicated?

 

A.  Some locksmiths will take the Nike approach and "Just Do It".  Some will even stamp _"DO NOT DUPLICATE"_ on the copy for you.  Many key-cutting clerks don't care.

 

Q. Do Skeleton Keys Exist?

 

A.  "Skeleton Keys" are keys ground to avoid the wards in warded locks.  There is no analog with modern pin tumbler locks.  Master keys may

open a large set of locks, but this is designed in when the locks are 'pinned' with master pins.

 

Q. Should I bother with high security ("pick proof") locks and other security enhancements for my home?

 

A. Why not?  If you are installing locks, the better quality ones are not much more expensive, and are physically more secure (e.g., have

hardened inserts to protect against drilling.)  However, note that protection against picking doesn't add a large amount to your security

since burglars almost always go the brute force route.  Regardless, you should have a deadbolt, and check your window security.

 

  An excellent project is to do a security survey of your own premises.  Look at the entire problem - consider lighting and visibility,

as well as the locks, doors and windows.  Ask your insurance agent, you may be eligible for a premium reduction if you make a few changes in

your home such as a) adding deadbolt locks, and  b) installing smoke detectors and fire extinguishers.

 

Q.  What is the "shear line"?

 

A.  Visualize a door lock - there is a fixed block (the lock body or cylinder) of metal with a cylindrical hole in it - the axis of this

hole is horizontal.  It is filled with a "plug" which is the part which turns with your key - and something attached to the rear of the plug actuates the latch/bolt when you turn the plug with the key.  There are some small vertical holes drilled in both the plug and the fixed block so they match up - and they are in a straight line which is the same line as the key.  Each hole (pin chamber) is filled with (at least) two pins (small cylindrical pieces of

metal - except that the portion of the bottom pin which touches the key is pointed) but the pins are of varying length, and there is a spring at the top of the chamber so that the pins are pushed away by the spring.  The bottom pin is short enough so that it will be pushed completely down within the plug and the top pin (imagining right now there are just two pins - extra ones are only used for master keying) goes from inside the top block to inside the plug.

Now the plug can't turn, because in each pin chamber there will be a pin blocking the "shear" line - the line where the pin chamber would "shear" apart when the plug turned.

 

  You put your key in - and the different heights on the key are made to "complement" the different lengths of the bottom pin so that all of the bottom pins are raised up just to the "shear line" between the plug and the fixed block part of the lock.  Then the key can turn the plug around its axis and actuate whatever

internal mechanisms are inside.

 

  [66]Picking a lock is a matter of raising the pins to the shear line, but without the key.

 

Q. What is "impressioning"?

 

A.  Impressioning is a technique for opening a lock by making a key out of a key blank for the lock.  The blank is filed to fit; the place and amount of filing depends upon small marks left on the key blank by the pin tumblers.

 

The advantage of impressioning for opening a lock is that it creates a key for that lock.  But the process is slow and requires a fair amount of skill.  With expert skill levels, the process is considerably faster.

 


Seeking information about changing your locks or making keys?

 

 

 

A short Glossary from Alt.Locksmithing

 

        blank

A key that has not yet been cut to fit a lock.

               

        core

 A removable cylinder and plug, used in a interchangeable core system.

               

        core key (sometimes control key)

A key which is used to remove a core.

               

        cylinder

 The part of the lock in which the the pins are set and which contains the plug.

               

        cuts

 The notches cut in the key to make it fit a lock.

               

        follower (plug follower)

 This is a cylindrical object of the same outer diameter as the plug (there are various diameters, often about 1/2") which is used to push out or follow the plug when the plug is to be removed. This retains the top pins and springs in the lock body.

               

        key way

 (short answer) The slot into which the key is inserted.

 (long answer) Refers to (a) the size and shape of the (cross-section of the) key, and (b) the opening in the lock which is shaped to admit the key and to keep out most keys of different sizes and shapes. Whether the keyway can be patented by the lock manufacturer as a way  to prevent others from manufacturing compatible key blanks and therefore to restrict access is open to dispute. Recent court cases make it doubtful that the simple design is patentable, but a keyway design which is involved in the patented method of operation of a lock may have patent protection.

               

        master key

A key which opens a group of locks designed to match it.

               

        pin tumblers

The pins in the lock which are moved to the shear line by the key.

               

        pin chamber

 The tubular hole in which pins and a spring stay.

               

        plug

 The part of the lock which the key is inserted and is rotated by the key.

               

        sidebar

A lock part located at the 'side' of the plug and fitting into longitudinal grooves in both the plug and the lock body. This keeps the plug from turning until the sidebar is retracted into the plug. Retraction is blocked until the correct key (or picking) moves the pins or other tumblers to positions which cease to block the retraction or produce some other action allowing the retraction. A sidebar can add additional positioning beyond the usual "shear line" and so can make picking more difficult. A number of locks use a sidebar to increase security.

               

        VATS

 GM's Vehicle Anti-Theft System which uses a resistor in the key shank in addition to the cuts on the key.

               

        wafer tumbler

 Used in locks which are less expensive than pin tumbler locks. They behave somewhat similarly.

               

        warded lock

A lock using wards to keep an incorrect key from entering the key hole and turning.

                                                                           

 

 

CONTACT US

Seeking information about changing your locks or making new keys?

 

Call our Certified Locksmith at:

(416) 706-7233

 

Business Hours   

Monday           Friday

9:00am          5:00pm

 

24/7 for existing customers

 

Email Questions to:
Jason@SpadinaSecurity.com

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